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Textured Hanging Crochet Basket with a Covered Cord Loop

Shape a mini double-crochet cord basket, narrow the front, and finish it with a decorative rim and densely covered hanging loop.

Steps
4 steps
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A textured hanging crochet basket can be compact and still have a useful opening. This little cord pocket has a rounded base, a taller back, and a substantial loop with a wrapped neck. Double crochet gives the walls their visible vertical texture, while a decorative rim makes the opening look finished.

Mustard-gold textured crochet hanging basket with a covered loop and project headline
A small cord basket with a firm edge and a neatly covered hanging loop.

The method comes from Tatyana Chakur of Soft Decor. Her mini example uses roughly 35–40 m of dense, coreless polyester cord and a 5 mm hook. She demonstrates the working sample in an ochre-ginger shade and shows a pale neutral version alongside it.

Materials and a note on size

Tatyana measures about 11 cm from the center to the edge of the sample. That is not a stated finished diameter or load capacity. Use the base rounds to understand the scale before adding the shaped walls. The same approach can be enlarged by continuing the circular increases before the first plain round.

US terms: ch = chain; sc = single crochet; dc = double crochet; dc2tog = two double crochets joined at the top. The lesson uses an alternative starting dc and a pulled-loop round join; count that starting stitch once, rather than adding a separate extra stitch beside it.

Build the three-round base

  1. Round 1: 12 dc. Make a magic ring and establish 12 dc positions, including the opening substitute stitch. Close the ring and use the demonstrated pulled-loop join to prepare for the next round.

    Source visuals: panels 1–2 in the sequence below.

  2. Round 2: 24 dc. Work 2 dc into each opening between the stitches. Begin with the demonstrated substitute dc, then add its partner in the same opening. Continue around and join.

    Source visual: panel 3 in the sequence below.

  3. Round 3: 36 dc. Alternate 1 dc and 2 dc into successive openings. Begin with a single and end with the paired stitches. Join without adding an extra stitch at the transition.

    Source visuals: panels 4–5 in the sequence below.

  4. Round 4: work evenly. Make 1 dc in each opening around. Without increases, the fabric begins to curve upward rather than remaining a flat circle.

    Source visual: panel 6 in the sequence below.

Tatyana tightens the center carefully by drawing the beginning cord through the first-round bridges. Do this before the walls hide the underside. A smaller hook helps reach the cord without dragging neighboring stitches out of shape.

Build the three-round base: Count twelve center stitches; Form the substitute starting dc; Double to twenty-four stitches; Alternate one and two dc; Check the neat round transition; Work evenly to curve the wall
Numbered source sequence: 1. Count twelve center stitches; 2. Form the substitute starting dc; 3. Double to twenty-four stitches; 4. Alternate one and two dc; 5. Check the neat round transition; 6. Work evenly to curve the wall.

Shape the point and narrow the front

In the next round, put 3 dc into the chosen back-point position, counting the starting substitute as the first of those three where it falls at the join. Work 1 dc in each remaining opening. This concentrated increase raises the back while keeping the rest of the wall rounded.

On the following round, repeat the three-dc point at the back. Work 10 plain dc down one side as demonstrated, then count the matching ten-stitch section on the opposite side and mark its endpoint. The front span between those side sections is where the decreases go.

Across the front span, work dc2tog: yarn over, draw up a loop in the first opening, yarn over and pull through two; yarn over and repeat the partial dc in the next opening; then pull through the three remaining loops together. Continue the paired decreases to the marker, then finish the other side in plain dc.

The opening should curve inward at the front without pulling the point sideways. Before proceeding, compare the two ten-stitch side sections and check that the pointed back remains centered. A misplaced marker is easier to correct now than after the decorative edge is added.

Shape the point and narrow the front: Three double crochets at the point; Mark the matching ten-stitch span; Work the first partial double crochet; Join two partial dc together; Repeat the front decreases; Inspect the narrowed opening
Numbered source sequence: 1. Three double crochets at the point; 2. Mark the matching ten-stitch span; 3. Work the first partial double crochet; 4. Join two partial dc together; 5. Repeat the front decreases; 6. Inspect the narrowed opening.

Add the corded decorative rim

The finishing round changes from dc to sc. At the point, the demonstrated setup again forms a three-stitch group. Work along the rim using the visible cord movement in the lesson: after each sc, bring the working cord under the hook in the same direction before forming the next stitch. This creates the small raised, corded outline rather than a plain untextured edge.

Keep the strand lying consistently and avoid twisting it during the extra movement. Work slowly over the decreases, identifying the top of each completed stitch instead of entering the gap between two partial dc. Join at the end of the rim.

Add the corded decorative rim: Begin the shorter rim stitches; Bring the cord under the hook; Keep the decorative rim even; Continue the raised cord outline
Numbered source sequence: 1. Begin the shorter rim stitches; 2. Bring the cord under the hook; 3. Keep the decorative rim even; 4. Continue the raised cord outline.

Make and cover the hanging loop

Ch 20 and join the chain at the demonstrated top point to form the loop. Check that it has not twisted. Work a securing chain, then cover the loop densely with the shown stitches around the chain. The lesson intentionally does not prescribe a covering count: use enough stitches to make a firm, fully covered loop.

Cut a useful tail and draw it through. Arrange the loop upright, then wrap the cord around the neck where the loop meets the basket. Keep the wraps tidy and close together. Use a smaller hook to take the finishing tail beneath the wraps and downward into the back of the basket.

Make and cover the hanging loop: Chain twenty for the loop; Begin covering the loop chain; Cover the chain densely; Wrap the base of the loop; Take the tail beneath the wraps; Hide the tail along the back stitches
Numbered source sequence: 1. Chain twenty for the loop; 2. Begin covering the loop chain; 3. Cover the chain densely; 4. Wrap the base of the loop; 5. Take the tail beneath the wraps; 6. Hide the tail along the back stitches.

Final checks for a small hanging pocket

Look through the opening to make sure no loose tail crosses the interior. Tug gently on the loop and inspect the join at the point. If the neck twists, loosen and realign the wraps before securing them again; the wrap should hold the loop upright, not drag it to one side.

Use a secure hook and begin with light contents. Keep heat away from the polyester cord, and follow the cord’s care instructions when cleaning. The decorative structure and small size are suited to a few everyday items rather than heavy storage.

Inspired by Soft Decor – Татьяна Чакур. Вяжем крючком!!!’s video tutorial.

Final checks for a small hanging pocket: Check the finished hanging pocket
Source close-up: 1. Check the finished hanging pocket.

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